A garden looks after itself for about three days a year. The rest of the time, it needs you — but only at the right moments. Most “garden maintenance” lists treat every job as equally urgent. They aren’t. Pruning a wisteria in March is essential. Pruning it in October is a mistake.
This is the calendar we use at Wild by Design when we maintain gardens across Surrey and Sussex — what to do, when to do it, and what to leave alone. Bookmark it. Come back to it every month.
Quick navigation:
- Spring (March, April, May)
- Summer (June, July, August)
- Autumn (September, October, November)
- Winter (December, January, February)
Why “Seasonal” Matters More Than “Monthly”
Plants don’t care about calendar months — they care about temperature, day length, and rainfall. A late frost in May means delaying everything by two weeks. A warm February means you’ll need to start mowing earlier. Use the months below as a guide, but watch the weather and the plants themselves. The cherry blossom in your garden is a more reliable signal than the date on the calendar.
Spring
Spring is the busiest month in any garden — and the work you do (or skip) in March, April and May sets the standard for the whole year.
March — Wake the Garden Up
Borders & beds
- Cut back ornamental grasses and any perennials you left for winter structure
- Lift, divide and replant congested clumps of perennials
- Mulch all borders with 5–7cm of composted bark or well-rotted manure (the single most valuable job of the year — saves 20+ hours of weeding later)
- Sow hardy annuals direct (calendula, cornflowers, nigella)
Lawn
- First mow when grass is dry and growing — usually mid to late March in Surrey. Set the blades on the highest setting for the first cut
- Edge lawns with a half-moon spade or sharp edger
- Apply a spring lawn feed if needed
Pruning
- Prune late summer-flowering clematis (group 3) hard
- Prune buddleia and lavatera back to a low framework
- Cut back any frost-damaged growth on tender shrubs
Planting
- Plant bare-root roses and shrubs (last chance — must be in by end of March)
- Lift and divide snowdrops “in the green” if you want to spread them
April — The Garden Takes Off
This is the busiest single month for most UK gardens. Get the basics right and the rest of the year flows.
Borders & beds
- Hand-weed everything before annual weeds set seed
- Stake tall perennials (delphiniums, peonies, lupins) before they grow into the supports
- Sow half-hardy annuals indoors or under cover
- Plant new perennials and shrubs (soil is warming, plants establish fast)
Lawn
- Mow weekly now if growth is strong — but follow the one-third rule (never cut more than a third of the leaf in one go)
- Scarify and aerate if you didn’t in autumn
- Reseed any bare patches
Pruning
- Prune forsythia immediately after it finishes flowering
- Prune spring-flowering shrubs (chaenomeles, kerria) once the flowers fade
- Pinch out the tips of fuchsias and chrysanthemums to encourage bushiness
Planting
- Plant out hardy vegetables (potatoes, onions, broad beans)
- Direct-sow carrots, parsnips, beetroot, lettuce
- Sow grass seed if patching the lawn — soil is warm enough
Pest watch
- Slugs and snails wake up. Use organic pellets, copper rings, beer traps or nematodes
- Lily beetles emerge — pick off by hand (red, easy to spot)
May — The Last Frost, the First Roses
Don’t be caught out: the last UK frost can land any time up to the third week of May. Don’t plant tender bedding or vegetables before then.
Borders & beds
- Continue weeding weekly — five minutes now saves an hour in July
- Deadhead tulips and daffodils (leave the foliage to die back naturally)
- Plant out summer bedding and tender vegetables AFTER the last frost
- Apply a second light mulch if needed
Lawn
- Mow weekly, drop the cutting height slightly, leave clippings on for nutrients
- Consider No Mow May for one section of lawn — supports pollinators, requires zero work
Pruning
- Prune spring-flowering clematis (group 1, e.g. C. montana) after flowering
- Cut back early-flowering perennials like pulmonaria and brunnera
Planting
- Plant runner beans, French beans, courgettes, sweetcorn outside
- Sow biennials (foxgloves, wallflowers) for next spring
Summer
Summer maintenance is mostly about keeping things healthy through heat and drought — and making sure plants flower for as long as possible.
June — Peak Growth
Borders & beds
- Deadhead repeat-flowering perennials (geraniums, salvias, roses) to extend flowering
- Continue weekly weeding
- Water new plantings deeply — once a week is better than little and often
- Tie in climbing roses and clematis as they grow
Lawn
- Mow weekly. In dry weather, raise the cutting height and leave clippings on
- Water lawns only if establishing — established lawns recover from drought
Pruning
- Trim early-flowering hedges (privet, box) once nesting season is past
- Cut back hardy geraniums by half after first flush — they’ll re-flower in 4 weeks
July — Drought Management
Borders & beds
- Deadhead constantly — sweet peas, dahlias, roses
- Mulch is now critical to retain moisture; top up if it’s worn thin
- Liquid feed pots and tubs weekly
- Save seed from poppies, hardy annuals as the heads dry
Lawn
- Don’t water unless the lawn is brand new. Brown grass recovers in autumn
- Mow only when needed — drought-stressed grass shouldn’t be cut
Pruning
- Wisteria first prune: shorten this year’s whippy growth to 5 leaves from the main stem
- Prune lavender lightly after flowering — never into old wood
- Trim conifer hedges
Planting
- Sow biennials and perennials from seed for next year
August — Hold the Line
Borders & beds
- Continue deadheading
- Cut back perennials that have finished (catmint, hardy geraniums) — many will flower again
- Order spring bulbs now for September delivery
Lawn
- Mow as needed
- Plan autumn lawn care (scarify, aerate, feed)
Pruning
- Summer-prune apples and pears (restricts vigour, encourages fruiting)
Planting
- Sow hardy salads (rocket, winter lettuce) for autumn cropping
Autumn
Autumn is the most underrated season for garden work. Anything planted now establishes faster than spring planting because the soil is warm and the plant has 6 months of root growth before it needs to grow leaves.
September — Plant Everything
Borders & beds
- Plant spring bulbs — daffodils, alliums, crocuses (tulips wait until November)
- Plant new perennials, shrubs and trees — best month of the year for it
- Lift and divide herbaceous perennials
- Sow hardy annuals direct for early summer flowers next year
Lawn
- Scarify (rake out moss and thatch)
- Aerate (spike with a fork or hollow-tine aerator)
- Apply autumn lawn feed (high potassium, low nitrogen)
- Overseed any bare patches
Pruning
- Trim hedges before nesting birds return next spring
- Cut back perennials that have finished
October — Tidy and Plant
Borders & beds
- Plant new shrubs, trees, fruit
- Bring tender plants (pelargoniums, dahlias) under cover
- Lift dahlias if your soil is heavy clay (leave in light soils with mulch protection)
- Continue clearing fallen leaves
Lawn
- Last regular mow — raise the blades higher
- Don’t walk on wet, frosty grass
Pruning
- Don’t prune anything heavily — wait until late winter
- Tidy up climbing roses, but don’t hard prune
Planting
- Plant tulip bulbs (this month and November are best — too early and you risk tulip fire)
- Plant garlic
- Sow broad beans for an early crop
November — Prepare for Winter
Borders & beds
- Leave perennials standing where you can — seed heads feed birds, hollow stems shelter insects
- Mulch borders with leaf mould or composted bark
- Move pots into sheltered positions, raise off the ground on pot feet
Lawn
- No mowing now in most years
- Brush off worm casts on dry days
Pruning
- Prune apple and pear trees (winter pruning encourages vigour)
- Cut back rose bushes by a third to prevent wind rock over winter
- DO NOT prune stone fruit (cherries, plums) — wait until summer to avoid silver leaf
Planting
- Last chance for bare-root roses and shrubs (any time November to March)
Winter
Winter is the planning season — and the season for the heaviest, most structural work.
December — Slow Down
Borders & beds
- Protect tender plants with fleece or mulch piles
- Knock heavy snow off conifers and hedges
- Check stakes and ties on trees
Tools
- Clean and oil tools, sharpen blades, send mowers for service
January — Plan and Prune
Borders & beds
- Plan next season — order seeds, plants, mulch in bulk now
- Force rhubarb (cover with a forcing pot for tender pink stems)
Pruning
- Prune apple and pear trees
- Prune winter-flowering jasmine after flowering
- Prune wisteria second time — shorten the summer growth back to 2–3 buds
Planting
- Bare-root planting season continues (roses, fruit, hedging)
February — Pre-Spring Prep
Borders & beds
- Cut back ornamental grasses before new growth starts
- Prune late-flowering clematis (group 3) to 30cm from the ground
- Apply winter wash to fruit trees
Lawn
- Mow if mild and dry — but only if the grass is growing
Pruning
- Hard-prune buddleia, lavatera, hardy fuchsia
- Cut back dogwoods (cornus) to 15cm for fresh winter stems next year
Planting
- Chit (sprout) seed potatoes
- Sow tomatoes, peppers, chillies under cover
The Three Most Skipped Jobs (That Make the Biggest Difference)
If you only do three things from the entire calendar above, do these:
- Mulch in March. A 7cm layer of bark or composted manure is the single highest-return job in any garden — saves 20+ hours of weeding, holds moisture, feeds the soil.
- Plant in September. Plants put in during September establish twice as fast as ones planted in spring. Borders settled in autumn look established by the following May.
- Don’t tidy too early. Leaving seed heads, hollow stems and leaf piles through winter feeds birds, shelters beneficial insects, and protects the crowns of perennials. Wait until February or March to clear.
Frequently Asked Questions
What gardening jobs should I do in April?
The big ones: hand-weed everything before annual weeds set seed, mow weekly using the one-third rule, plant new perennials and shrubs, sow hardy vegetables direct, and prune forsythia after flowering. April is the month that sets the tone for the whole growing season.
What should I plant in the garden in April in the UK?
Hardy vegetables (potatoes, onions, broad beans, carrots, parsnips, beetroot, lettuce), hardy annuals from seed (calendula, cornflowers), and any container-grown perennials and shrubs. Wait until after the last frost (third week of May in most of the UK) before planting tender vegetables and bedding.
When should I cut back perennials?
Late February or early March, just as new growth starts at the base. Cutting back in autumn looks tidy but removes valuable winter habitat for insects and birds — and the standing stems actually protect the crown of the plant from frost.
How often should I mulch?
Once a year is enough for most gardens — a 5–7cm layer in March. A second light top-up in autumn is worth doing if you have time, but the spring mulch is the one that does most of the work.
Do I need to feed my lawn?
A spring feed (high nitrogen) in March or April and an autumn feed (high potassium) in September are enough for most domestic lawns. Skip summer feeds — they encourage soft growth that struggles in drought.
What jobs can I do in winter?
Pruning fruit trees, wisteria, dogwoods and ornamental grasses; planting bare-root trees and hedges; mulching; planning and ordering for spring; cleaning and sharpening tools. Winter is the most underrated working season in the garden.
Want the Right Jobs Done at the Right Time?
We run garden maintenance services across Surrey from our Dorking base — fortnightly, monthly or seasonal visits, all written into a calendar so the work that needs doing in March is done in March, not in May. Every garden is different, so we start with a site visit and a tailored plan.
